Elders and Aging

 

 
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The older dog especially needs extra support. Puppies and active young adults draw the attention of people. Older and "special needs" animals are considered work and are often overlooked as a companion who would adore you. SO - on that trip to the shelter to pick up a companion consider an adult or older dog (so you may loose those first months of accidents and teething on furniture/shoes) for some busy person that might be just the ticket! And the difference (literally) between life or death to some of these animals. Older animals are worthy of love and are just as capable of returning it and bonding to you as a young animal. So you may lose a few years because they are older. Do not sell them short because of age. They have the potential to enrich your lives and give you so much...if you just give them the chance to do so. Let your heart go out to these animals. Imagine their loss and fear at being displaced from someone who loved them.


Caring for an Older Dog

As dogs begin to age, it is important for the owner to be aware of their pet's health and changing needs. Dogs age at different rates depending on breed, size, and environment and over all health. Signs of aging include deeper sleep, graying fur - particularly around the face, and reduced energy level. Noticing your dog's aging process is important as many problems can be avoided with good care.

Basic care for an older dog includes regular grooming, monitoring of weight and diet, examination of teeth and eyes, and protection from fleas and ticks. Grooming becomes increasingly important because it helps stimulate the production of natural oils to the dog's skin, which often slows down with age.

An older dog's activity level often decreases as well. A reduction in food, or switching to a senior dog food is often helpful in keeping the pet at a healthy weight. An overweight dog is susceptible to a greater number of health problems than an average weight dog. Also, the dog will be much more comfortable at a healthy weight. At this weight, a dog will move better and experience fewer aches and pains.

Check your dog's teeth and gums periodically for abnormalities. Tooth loss and gum disease are not uncommon and may affect eating patterns. Catching a dental problem early will usually result in a fairly simple treatment and a bigger problem will be avoided. Also check your dog's eyes. Some dog's eyes will start to get cloudy and vision may decrease. Keeping fleas and ticks and other parasites off your dog becomes increasingly important with advancing years. Parasites can carry diseases that are easier for a young dog to fight off than an older dog.

Daily care also changes as your dog ages. Try to give your dog a place to sleep that is away from draft and is not too hot or cold. A bed or mat will help keep your dog comfortable. If your dog begins to exhibit mobility problems, consider blocking off difficult areas such as stairs to keep him from getting hurt. Keeping a daily routine will also help comfort your dog. Don't punish your dog if he isn't capable of sticking to his housebreaking or if he is agitated when woken up suddenly. This is most likely an element of age and not a behavioral problem. Regular checkups with the vet become more important, since older dogs are more susceptible to ailments and early treatment can keep minor problems from becoming major ones.

Specific ailments to look for in older dogs are bladder and kidney problems. An older dog may need to be taken outdoors more often, but if there is a significant change or control issues when urinating have it examined by a vet. If your dog is experiencing aches and pains; particularly after sleeping, have him checked for arthritis and hip dysplasia. If you notice your dog having trouble breathing seek help immediately. This is a sign of a heart or lung problem. Checking for growths under the skin is important too. Many dogs will have growths, usually they are fat deposits, but there is a potential for cysts or tumors to develop. Catching these early is imperative to your dog's health. With a little extra care and attention your dog can have a long, healthy and happy life.

 

Caring for Your Older Pets during Winter

The brisk, refreshing days of autumn rapidly fade to the colder, more troublesome days of winter.  Winter is a time of added stress for all animals, but it is especially hard for our older pets.  Geriatric animals have less strength, less muscle reserves, and often underlying problems that may surface in the winter.  Every system of your elderly pet may suffer.  Cold weather, snow, and ice make it difficult for older joints to move, so arthritis gets worse.  Cold air aggravates respiratory and cardiac conditions, making breathing more difficult.  Older animals left outside without adequate shelter suffer from hypothermia and frostbite. Those left without fresh food and unfrozen water will become dehydrated and malnourished. Even geriatric pets that live indoors can suffer during winter.  The short days and lack of sunshine cause many an owner and a pet to feel blue, so exercise routines are eliminated, muscle tone is lost, and excess weight appears.  This weight can wreak havoc on the bones, joints, and organs of an older pet. 

But winter does not have to sap the strength of your beloved pets.  There are many steps that you can take to make sure that your older pets not only survive, but thrive this winter.  Of course, these tips apply to younger animals as well, but they are absolutely critical to the good health of senior animals.  By following a few simple steps, your elderly pets will not only enjoy the brisk weather, but feel great all season.  You will have the satisfaction of knowing that you are providing the best care possible for your older friends.


1. Provide fresh water at all times:
All pets must have access to clean water at all times.  Many older pets are suffering from undiagnosed, underlying kidney and liver problems.  If water is restricted, these problems can surface as major illnesses.  A pet with kidney disease left without water for one day will dehydrate and become very ill.  Remember that snow and ice do not replace water.  Fresh, unfrozen water needs to be available on a continual basis, so a heater may be needed to keep water from freezing.  Large, plastic bowls are a better choice to hold water than metal bowls, as the pet's tongue may stick to a cold, metal bowl.  The water will do no good if the pet cannot get to it, so it is critical to make sure that your older pets have clean, unfrozen water that they are able to reach no matter how snowy or icy the day.  Make sure to shovel pathways to water bowls, use de-icer on walkways as needed, and keep fresh water inside and out.

2. Provide shelter from rain, snow, and wind:
All pets, no matter the length and thickness of their coats, need protection from winter precipitation and wind.  A proper structure keeps the pet warm, dry, out of drafts, and up off the damp ground.  The best structure is your own house.  If a dog cannot be kept in the house, a doghouse or similar structure must be constructed.  The house should be large enough to allow the dog to turn around and lie down in, but small enough for the dog's body to heat.  It should be insulated to reduce heat loss to the outside.  Traditional wooden doghouses with an open front and peaked roof are not suitable for most winter environments. The wood is a poor insulator, prone to rot, and attractive to insects.  The open door allows cold air to fill the house. A better design is a plastic resin house with an offset door and a covering flap.  Houses should be elevated off the ground, faced away from the prevailing wind, and have a blanket or similar object for bedding.  Placing the house under an existing roof or structure helps protect the dog from foul weather.
Older cats should be kept indoors.  Feral cats can be helped by placing shelters in the areas that the cats congregate.  The shelters should be elevated, have a flap to block wind, and be bedded with some type of warm bedding.
Every attempt should be made to keep geriatric animals in the house, not outside with a shelter.  Animals that could withstand the cold when they were young are less likely to do well in the face of cold weather as they age.  They do not have the body mass, body fat, or stamina to stay out in frigid temperatures.  Older pets belong with you, in the house, during inclement weather.

3. Protect your older pet from hypothermia:
Hypothermia is the medical term for a body temperature below normal.  Even though most pets have fur, they can still lose enough body heat to suffer from hypothermia. Animals with little body fat, those in weak condition, those with poor muscle tone, and those with poor hair coats are prime candidates for hypothermia.  So are pets that cannot regulate their body temperature easily.  Most elderly cats and dogs belong in one or more of these categories.  Older animals are more likely to have poor body tone, to have sparse hair coats, and to be unable to regulate their body temperature.  As the body temperature starts to fall, the animals' internal organs cease to function properly.  A hypothermic animal may shiver, be cold to the touch, act lethargic, suffer from a drop in heart rate and respiratory rate, and become unresponsive.  Hypothermia can be rapidly fatal.
Treatment consists of warming the pet with hot water bottles, hair dryers, or heating pads.  Treatment must be immediate, but done slowly enough to avoid burns.  Since circulation is compromised, heat that would normally not cause a problem can actually burn the pet.  Therefore, heating pads should be covered with a towel and hair dryers set on low.  The pet should be turned often to prevent overheating one side of the body, and to stimulate circulation.  Once the process is started, and the animal begins to warm up, it should be wrapped in a blanket and immediately transferred to the veterinarian for further treatment.
Keeping your older pet warm and dry can prevent hypothermia. Wind and water rob your dog of heat, so shelter is a necessity.  Any older pets that get wet or cold playing or walking outside should be brought indoors and dried.  Keep walks and play periods short to prevent chilling.  Dogs with short hair coats can be protected with sweaters or coats designed for dogs.  Coats are not a substitute for shelter, as they only warm the dog's body, and they must be cleaned frequently to maintain their insulating properties, but they will keep short-haired dogs comfortable when the thermometer drops. 

4. Protect your older pet from frostbite:
Frostbite occurs when the body tissues become so cold that circulation is impaired and damage results.  Areas prone to frostbite include ears, feet, and the tip of the tail. These parts of the body often lack hair and receive decreased blood flow when the body is chilled.  Feet are especially sensitive to frostbite because snow and ice pack between the toes, providing a direct source of cold.  Older pets with heart disease already have poor circulation to the extremities.  If the body gets chilled, circulation to these areas is decreased even more and frostbite can rapidly occur.
Frostbitten areas will initially turn white and may lose hair.  If warmed, the tissue will redden and swell.  Frostbite is very painful.  A pet with frostbite should have the affected areas slowly and gently warmed.  Avoid vigorous rubbing and extremely high temperature, as this will cause more damage to already devitalized tissues.  Once treatment is begun, the pet should be brought to the veterinarian for further care.  Response to treatment varies depending on the extent of tissue damage.  If damage is not severe, recovery is possible, although the hair may not grow back, or it may grow in white.  Some frostbitten areas do not recover and require amputation.
Frostbite can be prevented by monitoring your older pet.  Make sure that the animal does not stay outside long enough to chill sensitive body parts.  Remove snow and ice that packs between toes and on the legs.  Consider boots for dogs that love long walks, but end up with chilled feet. Even though boots will provide some protection, they will not replace common sense and good foot care for your pets.

5. Protect your older pet from malnutrition:
Like most people, most pets do not require more calories just because it is cold outside.  But pets that spend a great deal of time outside or dogs that work and run during the winter may need additional calories to meet their bodies' demands.  This is especially true of older pets that do not digest and utilize their food as well as they did when they were younger.  Calories can be increased by increasing the total amount of food given to the animal or by increasing the amount of fat in the diet.  Some dogs literally are not able to eat a large enough amount of dry food to meet their caloric needs during the winter.  These dogs will need added meat and fats to increase the number of calories per bite.  The goal is to maintain optimum weight all year, no matter what the actual outside temperature.
Do not simply fill a bowl with dry food and forget about it.  If an older dog must be kept outside, it should be regularly checked to make sure that it is not losing weight.  Your older animal must have ample food and be physically able to consume it.  The dog will need healthy teeth and gums and a food that it will readily consume.  This may be the perfect time to have the pet's mouth examined and teeth cleaned, and to switch to a higher calorie, canned food. 
The opposite problem may occur with those elderly pets kept indoors all winter.  Many older pets do not want to go out in the cold.  They prefer to sit on the couch, by the fire, all winter.  These pets may actually gain weight as they await springtime.  The excess weight places stress on older joints and organs, and can increase signs of heart disease, respiratory disease, liver disease, and arthritis.  It is important to make sure that your geriatric couch cat or dog does not gain excessive weight in the colder months. Short walks can do wonders for the pet's health and attitude. 

6. Protect your older pet from toxins and poisons:
The commercial products used to make life easier in the cold months can be dangerous for dogs.  Road salts and the chemicals designed to melt ice are toxic for dogs.  They irritate the dogs' footpads, can burn skin, and cause mouth irritations if swallowed.  Sand mixed in with the chemicals can abrade pads and skin, leading to more irritation and secondary infections.  These effects may be even more severe in older animals that are suffering from underlying liver and kidney problems, or have suppressed immune systems. 
Exposure to these irritants can be limited by putting boots on dogs and making sure that ice, snow, and road salt are routinely removed from the feet, chest, and belly.  Rinsing these areas and drying them will remove the chemicals, melt hardened ice and snow, and remove bacteria.  Keeping the feet warm and dry will help prevent blisters and infections.  Cats really should be kept indoors, but those that go outside should have their feet cleaned and checked daily.
Care should also be taken to keep car products, such as antifreeze, away from dogs and cats.  Antifreeze made with ethylene glycol tastes good and is extremely toxic to pets.  Dogs have been known to chew through the plastic bottle to get to the antifreeze inside of it.  Antifreeze containers should be wiped clean before storing.  They should be stored in areas that are inaccessible to any pet.  This can be a problem for owners that bring cats and dogs into the garage in inclement weather.  These pets must not have any access to any amounts of antifreeze.  Very small amounts of the product can cause rapid kidney failure and death.  If a pet has come in contact with antifreeze, the animal should be brought to the veterinarian for immediate treatment.  Do not wait to see if the animal becomes sick; seek emergency medical care as rapidly as possible 

7. Protect your older pet from getting lost:
Older pets often lose some of their hearing, eyesight, and sense of smell.  Pets that could find their way home with ease when they were younger are now likely to become disoriented and easily lost.  This problem gets worse if familiar sights are covered by ice and snow, or if plowed snow covers trails the pets usually use to get home.  Make sure that your older pets are not put into a situation where they can become lost.  One night out in the cold may be too much for your aged pet.  Elderly pets should not be allowed to run loose.  They should wear collars with name tags and be micro-chipped.  It your pet does leave the house or yard, do not wait to see if it comes home.  Go look for your older pet before the day becomes dark and the animal cannot be found.

8. Protect your older dog's legs, feet and pads:
Your dog's paws and pads are often wet, muddy, or covered with snow and ice in the winter.  If not properly treated, lameness and infection can occur.  Tiny abrasions, cuts, and cracks caused by the ice and frozen mud can lead to lameness.  Bacteria and yeast can overgrow in the wet, dirty cracks and lead to infections of the nail beds and pads.  These infections can be painful and difficult to treat and may eventually result in the loss of a nail.  In addition, snow, ice, or mud that is frozen in between the toes can force the toes apart and cause the dog to walk incorrectly.  Ice that is frozen into clumps along the hair on the legs can pull the hair away from the skin and cause irritation.  As previously discussed, packed snow can impair circulation and lead to frostbite, while road salt, sand, and de-icing chemicals can cause blisters, irritations, and burns on the feet and pads.  Even though these problems can plague any dog, an older pet that is already arthritic and sore is more likely to become injured and lame than a younger, healthier pet.  In addition, healing is often prolonged in older pets, so it becomes even more important to protect your elderly pets from winter time foot injuries.
Ice and mud should be removed from the dog's feet and pads.  Clipping the long leg and foot hair to a moderate length may facilitate this winter grooming.  After the ice and snow are removed, the feet can be rinsed and dried to remove chemicals and dirt.  In addition, the use of dog boots can help prevent the build-up of ice and snow that leads to foot irritations.
It is especially important to help elderly, arthritic pets deal with the cold weather.  Chilled muscles and joints do not move and glide smoothly, so older pets may be stiff and sore in the winter months.  Help these pets by providing daily, short walks to limber tired muscles.  Keep older pets off of cold, hard floors by using padded, orthopedic beds with plush coverings.  Older pets are less agile and more likely to fall, so monitor your dog as it navigates steps to prevent spills and use a portable ramp to aid in climbing steps or into the cars.  Preventing falls eliminates the need for painful recoveries.

9. Protect your older pet from burns:
Older pets that are less aware of their surroundings are prone to accidental burns.  More burns occur during winter than any other time of year because older animals seek external heat to warm old bones and because owners tend to use extra heat in the cold weather.  There are many sources of heat that can potentially cause burn injuries.  These include wood burning and gas fireplaces, portable electric and propane space heaters, and even electric blankets.  Dogs and cats can be burned by sleeping too close to heat sources, or by flying embers and sparks.  They can knock over space heaters and chew through electric cords.  Sleeping on heating pads or electric blankets can create hotspots on the pets' bodies that lead to burns.  Even hot winter beverages that are accidentally spilled can cause painful burns. 
Burns from fireplaces can be prevented by the use of properly placed screens.  Other burns can be prevented by monitoring pets at all times when space heaters or heating pads are being used.  No animals should ever be left alone in a room with any type of space heater.  Pets should not be allowed to sleep unattended on electric blankets, so resist your older cat's pleas to sleep on the heated blanket.  The animals should not be allowed to sleep directly on the surface of a heating pad, and must be monitored continually if one is used under their bedding.  Instead of electrically heated pads or blankets, use covered orthopedic beds or thermal beds to cushion older pets and keep them comfortable.
Accidental burns should be treated immediately by placing ice on the burned area and seeking veterinary care.  The damage caused by a burn can be much greater than it appears, so a veterinarian should examine any burns on your pets. 

10. Protect your older dog from accidents:
Dogs do not instinctively know how to handle themselves in the winter.  They are not wolves and do not have a natural ability to handle inclement weather.  Dogs cannot find their way through blinding blizzards, and can become lost and disoriented.  Like people, dogs can fall on the ice or slippery surfaces and injure themselves.  They also cannot tell if an ice-covered lake, pond, or river is safe to walk across.  Dogs can easily fall through thin ice and drown.  Make sure that your dog only has access to frozen water surfaces that are known to be safe.  If a wintertime activity is not safe for humans, it should not be considered safe for a dog.
Take extra steps to protect your older pet from winter time accidents.  Elderly pets are more delicate than younger ones, so the slippery ice that is an inconvenience for a younger dog may cripple an older pet that falls.  Make sure to shovel ice-covered steps or place a ramp over them to avoid dangerous spills. And remember that the dunk in the frigid lake that your younger dog enjoys all winter can lead to hypothermia in your older friend.  Either avoid the swim or dry your dog immediately afterwards.  Attention to details can help you avoid unnecessary winter accidents that can harm your older pets. 

11. Protect your dog from seasonal holidays.
Winter holidays are very exciting, but are a potential source of danger for your senior dogs and cats.  Protect your older pets from holiday indulgences.  Do not allow them to eat excessive amounts of holiday treats or leftovers.  Digestive upsets that may lead to mild diarrhea or vomiting in a younger pet can result in serious illness in an older pet that already suffers from chronic gastrointestinal, liver, or kidney troubles, or diseases such as diabetes. The result can be digestive upsets, severe vomiting and diarrhea, and even a potentially fatal inflammation of the pancreas called pancreatitis.  Avoid letting your pet eat the bones from holiday turkeys or other meats.  The bones can splinter or catch in the digestive tract.  Also, do not feed holiday treats rich in chocolate to the pet, as this sweet is toxic to animals. 

Holiday accidents can be very dangerous for older pets.  Elderly animals may have underlying troubles that interfere with healing or prevent surgery if needed.  So, guard your pets and avoid common problems.  For example, your pets need to be protected from the Christmas tree.  Do not allow them to chew on Christmas tree needles that fall from the tree.  The needles are very sharp and will irritate the mouth, gums, and tongue, and can penetrate the intestines if swallowed.  Swallowed needles can require a surgical repair, which could be life-threatening for older pets. 
The pets should also be prevented from drinking the water from the tree stand.  This water can be contaminated with insecticides and fertilizers from the tree trunk.   Avoid letting them play with wrapping strings, ribbons, and tinsel, as these items can lodge in the intestines and create severe damage and blockages.  Hang ornaments above the level of the dog's mouth to prevent the dog from knocking them over and chewing on them.  Homemade ginger bread and dough ornaments are especially attractive to dogs, so hang these ornaments high in the tree or place a decorative fence around the tree to keep the dog away.  Finally, make sure electric light cords are placed out of reach of a curious animal's mouth.
Decorative plants such as poinsettia, holly, Jerusalem cherry, amaryllis, and mistletoe are poisonous to animals.  These plants should be kept in areas that pets cannot reach or replaced with artificial plants.  Holiday candles should also be kept in inaccessible areas and monitored when lit.
Finally, do not push your older pet to interact with visitors if the animal is uncomfortable.  Pets that are not used to a lot of guests or have never socialized with children may be uncomfortable in crowded situations.  Even animals that used to love attention may resist being touched if their bones and joints ache, or if they are just tired and wish to be left alone.  These animals should be allowed to leave and relax, undisturbed, in a quiet area of the house. This can make the holiday more enjoyable for everyone involved.

12. Pay attention to your older pet's needs:
The most important health tip for your older pets is to make sure that you pay attention to their needs.  Do not be so distracted by the snow, ice, and holidays that you forget that your aged pet needs a little extra attention in cold weather.  Whether it is another orthopedic pad placed on the cold floor, or a ramp over the frozen steps, small acts of kindness can help your older friend feel fine this winter. And do not ignore small changes in behavior that may signal a medical problem.  If your older pet refuses to go outside, won't eat, or falls in the snow, a visit to the veterinarian may be needed.  By paying attention to details and keeping a close eye on your older pet, the winter should pass easily into a healthy spring.

Sincerely,
Dr. Jane Leon

 

 

Monitoring Your Aging Dog for Signs of Disease
Holly Frisby, DVM
Veterinary Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.

As your dog ages, the likelihood he will develop various changes in the function of his body systems increases. Some of these will be normal changes due to the aging process, others may be indicative of disease. To be more easily alerted to possible signs of disease early in the disease process:
  • Monitor food consumption: how much is being eaten?, what type of food is being eaten (e.g.; does your dog leave the hard kibble and only eat the canned?)?, any difficulty eating or swallowing?, any vomiting?
  • Monitor water consumption: drinking more or less than usual?
  • Monitor urination and defecation: color, amount, consistency and frequency of stool; color and amount of urine; any signs of pain while urinating or defecating?, any urinating or defecating in the house?
  • Measure weight every 2 months: for small dogs use an infant or mail scale, or use the scale in your veterinarian's office; for medium-size dogs, weigh yourself holding the dog, then weigh yourself and subtract to find the difference; for larger dogs, you may need to use your veterinarian's scale.
  • Groom, check and clip nails, look for any lumps, bumps, or non-healing sores; any abnormal odors?, any change in size of abdomen?, increased hair loss?
  • Monitor behavior: sleep patterns, obeying commands, tendency to be around people; any house soiling?, easily startled?, anxious when left alone?
  • Monitor activity and mobility: difficulty with stairs?, inability to exercise without tiring quickly?, bumping into things?, sudden collapses?, seizures?, any loss of balance?, any lameness or change in gait?
  • Look for any changes in respiration: coughing?, panting?, sneezing?
  • Provide home dental care: brush your dog's teeth, regularly examine the inside of his mouth; any excesive drooling?, bad breath?, are the gums yellow, light pink, or purplish?
  • Monitor environmental temperature and the temperature at which your dog seems most comfortable.
  • Schedule regular appointments with your veterinarian.

Some of the more common signs indicative of diseases are shown in the table below. Remember, just because your dog has a sign of a disease does not necessarily mean he has the disease. What it does mean, is that your dog should be examined by your veterinarian so a proper diagnosis can be made.

 
Signs and Symptoms of Common Diseases in Older Dogs Associated Diseases
Behavior Changes Pain associated with arthritis
Loss of sight or hearing
Cognitive dysfunction
Hypothyroidism
Liver disease
Kidney disease
Weakness or excercise intolerance Mitral insufficiency/Heart disease
Anemia
Obesity
Diabetes mellitus
Cancer
Hypothyroidism
Changes in activity level Hypothyroidism
Arthritis
Pain
Obesity
Anemia
Mitral Insufficiency/
Heart disease
Kidney disease
Cancer
Weight gain Hypothyroidism
Cushing's disease
Obesity
Arthritis
Weight loss Cancer
Kidney disease
Liver disease
Gastrointestinal disease
Decreased food consumption
Oral or dental disease
Mitral Insufficiency/Heart disease
Diabetes mellitus
Inflammatory bowel disease
Abnormally colored mucous membranes (gums) Anemia
Mitral Insufficiency/Heart disease
Liver disease
Coughing Mitral Insufficiency/Heart disease
Respiratory disease
Heartworm disease
Cancer
Increased thirst and urination Cushing's disease
Pyometra (uterine infection)
Diabetes mellitus
Liver disease
Kidney disease
Vomiting Kidney disease
Liver disease
Gastrointestinal disease
Inflammatory bowel disease
Cancer
Diabetes mellitus
Diarrhea Gastrointestinal disease
Sudden changes in diet
Inflammatory bowel disease
Kidney disease
Liver disease
Seizures Epilepsy
Cancer
Kidney disease
Liver disease
Mitral Insufficiency/Heart disease
Haircoat changes Hypothyroidism
Cushing's disease
Obesity
Bad breath Dental disease
Oral cancer
Kidney disease
Lameness, difficulty rising Arthritis
Nervous system disease
Obesity
Urinary incontinence Kidney disease
Pain from arthritis
Hormone responsive incontinence
Bladder stones
Cancer
Prostate disease
Lumps or bumps Cancer
Benign tumors
Appetite changes Diabetes mellitus
Cancer
Liver disease
Kidney disease
Gastrointestinal disease
Stress
Pain
Reaction to medication(s)
Oral or dental disease
Cushing's disease
Cloudy eye Nuclear sclerosis
Cataract
Glaucoma
 

References
Becker, M. Caring for older pets and their families. Firstline; August/September 1998: 28-30.

Bruyette, D (moderator). The brain on the wane: Roundtable on canine cognitive dysfunction. Veterinary Forum; July 1998: 54-59.

Harper, EJ. Changing perspectives on ageing and energy requirements: Ageing and energy intakes in humans, dogs, and cats. Waltham International Symposium on Pet Nutrition and Health in the 21st Century. Orlando, FL; May 25-29, 1997.

Horwitz, DF. Diagnosing and treating behavior problems in senior dogs. Supplement to Veterinary Economics; 1998: 54-63.

Hoskins, JD; McCurnin, DM. Geriatric care in the late 1990s. In Hoskins, JD (ed) The Veterinary Clinics of North America Small Animal Practice: Geriatrics. W.B. Saunders Co. Philadelphia, PA; 1997: 1273-1284.

Hoskins, JD; McCurnin, DM. Implementing a successful geriatric medicine program. Supplement to Veterinary Medicine; 1997.

Landsberg, G. The most common behavior problems of older dogs. Supplement to Veterinary Medicine; 1995 (August): 16-24.

Landsberg, G; Ruehl, W. Geriatric Behavior Problems. In Hoskins, JD (ed) The Veterinary Clinics of North America Small Animal Practice: Geriatrics. W.B. Saunders Co. Philadelphia, PA; 1997: 1537-1559.

Overall, KL. Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Small Animals. Mosby-Year Book, Inc. St. Louis, MO; 1997.

Thompson, S (moderator). Roundtable on pediatric, adult, senior, and geriatric wellness at every stage of life. Veterinary Forum; 1999 (January): 60-67. 

 

 

Common Diseases in Older Dogs
Holly Frisby, DVM
Veterinary Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.

In The Aging Process and How We Can Help Older Dogs Adapt, we explain some of the more common and normal changes we can see in the function of the various organ systems in an older dog. Many of these changes are expected. Disease can occur, however, if these changes become severe and the organ or system is no longer able to compensate. The more common diseases seen in older dogs and the signs of these diseases are listed in the table below. Most of the diseases are discussed in detail in separate articles, just one click away.
Common Diseases in Older Dogs Signs and Symptoms of Disease
Cancer Abnormal swellings that persist or continue to grow
Sores that do not heal
Weight loss
Loss of appetite
Bleeding or discharge from any body opening
Offensive odor
Difficulty eating or swallowing
Hesitation to exercise or loss of stamina
Difficulty breathing, urinating, or defecating
Dental disease Bad breath
Difficulty eating or swallowing
Weight loss
Arthritis Difficulty rising
Difficulty climbing steps and/or jumping
Behavior changes - irritable, reclusive
House soiling
Loss of muscle
Kidney disease/failure Increased urination and thirst
Weight loss
Vomiting
Loss of appetite
Weakness
Pale gums
Diarrhea
Blood in vomit or black, tarry stool
Bad breath and oral ulcers
Behavior changes
Prostate disease House soiling
Dribbling urine
Blood in urine
Cataracts Cloudy appearance to eyes
Bumping into objects
Not retrieving objects
Hypothyroidism Weight gain
Dry, thin haircoat
Lethargy, depression
Cushing's disease Thin haircoat and thin skin
Increased thirst and urination
Pot-bellied appearance
Increased appetite
Urinary incontinence Urine in bed or area in which pet was sleeping
Dry eye Large amounts of yellow-green discharge from eyes
Epilepsy Seizures
Gastrointestinal disease Vomiting
Diarrhea
Loss of appetite
Loss of weight
Blood in stool
Black and/or tarry stool
Inflammatory bowel disease Diarrhea
Vomiting
Mucous or blood in stool
Increased frequency of defecation
Diabetes mellitus Increased thirst and urination
Weight loss
Weakness, depression
Vomiting
Obesity Overweight
Exercise intolerance
Difficulty walking or getting up
Unkempt haircoat, especially in anal area
Anemia Exercise intolerance
Very light-colored gums
Mitral Insufficiency/Heart disease Exercise intolerance
Coughing, especially at night
Weight loss
Fainting
Panting
Liver disease Vomiting
Loss of appetite
Behavior changes
Yellow or pale gums
Bladder stones Difficulty urinating
Blood in the urine
May show no signs of disease
 
References
Becker, M. Caring for older pets and their families. Firstline; August/September 1998: 28-30.

Bruyette, D (moderator). The brain on the wane: Roundtable on canine cognitive dysfunction. Veterinary Forum; July 1998: 54-59.

Harper, EJ. Changing perspectives on ageing and energy requirements: Ageing and energy intakes in humans, dogs, and cats. Waltham International Symposium on Pet Nutrition and Health in the 21st Century. Orlando, FL; May 25-29, 1997.

Horwitz, DF. Diagnosing and treating behavior problems in senior dogs. Supplement to Veterinary Economics; 1998: 54-63.

Hoskins, JD; McCurnin, DM. Geriatric care in the late 1990s. In Hoskins, JD (ed) The Veterinary Clinics of North America Small Animal Practice: Geriatrics. W.B. Saunders Co. Philadelphia, PA; 1997: 1273-1284.

Hoskins, JD; McCurnin, DM. Implementing a successful geriatric medicine program. Supplement to Veterinary Medicine; 1997.

Landsberg, G. The most common behavior problems of older dogs. Supplement to Veterinary Medicine; 1995 (August): 16-24.

Landsberg, G; Ruehl, W. Geriatric Behavior Problems. In Hoskins, JD (ed) The Veterinary Clinics of North America Small Animal Practice: Geriatrics. W.B. Saunders Co. Philadelphia, PA; 1997: 1537-1559.

Overall, KL. Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Small Animals. Mosby-Year Book, Inc. St. Louis, MO; 1997.

Thompson, S (moderator). Roundtable on pediatric, adult, senior, and geriatric wellness at every stage of life. Veterinary Forum; 1999 (January): 60-67. 

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WHAT IS A CATARACT?

 

The normal lens of the eye is a focussing device. It is completely clear and is suspended in position by special tissue fibers (called “zonules”) just inside the pupil.   The lens focusses an image on the retina in the back of the eye in a process called “accommodation.”  The focussing power of the dog’s lens is at least three times weaker than that of a human and a cat’s lens is at best half the focussing power as a human’s.  (It is helpful to remember that dogs and cats have a sense of smell at least 1000 times more accurate than ours and this is their primary means of perceiving the world.)

Despite its clarity, the lens is in fact made of tissue fibers. As the animal ages, the lens cannot change it’s size and grow larger; instead, it becomes more compact with fibers. This condition is called “nuclear sclerosis” and is responsible for the cloudy-eyed appearance of older dogs but these lenses are still clear and the dog can still see through them; these are not cataracts.  The lens is enclosed in a capsule which, if disrupted, allows the immune system to see the lens proteins for the first time, recognize them as “foreign,” and attack. The resulting inflammation is painful and can be damaging to the eye.

A cataract is an opacity in the lens.

Cataracts can be congenital, age-related, of genetic origin (the most common cause), caused by trauma, by dietary deficiency (some kitten milk replacement formulas have been implicated), by electric shock, or by toxin. The patient with a cataract is not able to see through the opacity. If the entire lens is involved, the eye will be blind.

    A SPECIAL NOTE ON DIABETES MELLITUS IN DOGS:

    Many things can cause the lens to develop a cataract.  A special cause is Diabetes Mellitus. In this condition the blood sugar soars as does the sugar level of the eye fluids.  The fluid of the eye’s anterior chamber (see illustration above) is the fluid that normally nurtures the lens but in the diabetic pet the lens can only utilize so much sugar. Excess absorbed sugar is transformed into sorbitol within the lens which unfortunately draws water into the lens causing an irreversible cataract in each eye. Cataracts are unavoidable in diabetic dogs no matter how good the insulin regulation is; diabetic cats have alternative sugar metabolism in the eye and do not get cataracts.

WHAT ELSE COULD IT BE?

Many owners are not really able to tell which portion of the eye looks cloudy.  Cloudiness on the cornea, as caused by other eye diseases, can be mistaken for a cataract by an inexperienced owner.  Also, in the dog, the lens will become cloudy with age as more and more fibers are laid down as described above.  Nuclear sclerosis, as described,  can mimic the appearance of a cataract yet the eye with this condition can see and is not diseased.  It is a good idea to have your veterinarian examine your pet if you think he or she has a cataract as you could be mistaken.

WHY IS HAVING A CATARACT BAD?

The area of the lens involved by the cataract amounts to a spot that the cannot be seen through. If the cataract involves too much of the lens, the animal may be blind in that eye and, of course, there could be cataracts in both eyes which means the pet could be rendered completely blind.

A cataract can “luxate” which means that it can slip from the tissue strands that hold it in place. The cataractous lens can thus end up floating around in the eye where it can cause damage. If it settles so as to block the natural fluid drainage of the eye, glaucoma (a build up in eye pressure) can result, leading to pain and permanent blindness. A cataract can also cause glaucoma when it absorbs fluid and swells so as to partially obstruct fluid drainage from the eye.

Cataracts can begin to dissolve after they have been present long enough. This sounds like it could be a good thing but in fact, this is a highly inflammatory process. The deep inflammation in the eye creates a condition called “uveitis” which is in itself painful and can lead to glaucoma.

A small cataract that does not restrict vision is probably not significant.  A more complete cataract may warrant treatment. Cataracts have different behavior depending their origin.  If a cataract is of a type that can be expected to progress rapidly (such as the hereditary cataracts of young cocker spaniels) it may be of benefit to pursue treatment when the cataract is smaller and softer, as surgery will be easier.

WHAT TREATMENT IS AVAILABLE?

Cataract treatment generally involves surgical removal or physical dissolution of the cataract under anesthesia.  This is invasive and expensive and is not considered unless it can restore vision. A complete examination of the eye is performed by a veterinary ophthalmologist.  If a cataract is present, it is not possible to see the retina through it; a test called an “Electroretinogram” is done to determine if the eye has a functional retina and could benefit from cataract surgery. Ultrasound of the eye can be used to look for retinal detachments.  If the eye has a blinded retina, there is no point to subjecting the patient to surgery.

Obviously, the patient must be in good general health to undergo surgery; diabetics must be well regulated before cataract surgery. Also, it should be obvious that in order for a patient to be a good candidate for surgery, the patient must have a temperament conducive to the administration of eye drops at home. Pets with cataracts in one eye that can see in the other eye generally do not need surgery.

If the patient proves to be an appropriate surgical candidate, the lens can be softened and sucked away using a technique called “phacoemulsification.”  If the patient is relatively young, the lens is relatively soft and phacoemulsification is the first choice procedure.

Older patients have much harder lenses and it is more common in these patients to simply remove the lens surgically.

COMPLICATIONS: Some degree of uveitis (deep inflammation) in s unavoidable. This can cause a pupil constriction reaction which can increase the risk to scarring within the eye.  Eye drops to keep the pupil dilated are usually effective in preventing this but not always. Inflammation in the eye will resolve over weeks to months after surgery.  Success rate is higher for cataract surgery if minimal inflammation is present in the eye prior to surgery thus pre-operative anti-inflammatory eye drops are frequently prescribed.

Another complication involves the development of opacities on the remaining lens capsule. In humans, laser surgery is used to remove the lens capsule but in the dog, the capsule is too thick for this.   Some ophthalmologists prefer to remove the capsule as a preventive measure. The portion of the capsule that is involved in this reaction is present in young dogs but not in adult dogs.

Bleeding after surgery can be an enormous complication and can easily be caused by excess barking or activity after surgery. Small bleeds are of little consequence but a large bleed could ruin vision.

OVERALL, A 90% SUCCESS RATE IS DESCRIBED
AFTER CATARACT SURGERY.

An Elizabethan collar will be very important after surgery as patient rubbing or pawing at the eye could be a disaster.  Topical therapy (eye drops) will be needed for several months after surgery.

BEFORE EMBARKING ON THE ADVENTURE OF
CATARACT SURGERY, BE SURE TO OBTAIN
A CLEAR EXPLANATION FROM YOUR
OPHTHALMOLOGIST OF EXACTLY
WHAT THE HOME CARE WILL INVOLVE.

LENS IMPLANTATION

A prosthetic lens may or may not be inserted after the cataractous lens has been removed. Without the prosthesis, the dog’s vision will be approximately 20/800, and objects will appear to be reversed (as in a mirror).  This sounds debilitating but, again, it is important to remember that pets do not depend on their eyes in the way we do so it is hard to make a good analogy.

    Pros:  A prosthetic lens allows for normal restoration of vision.

    Cons:  The incidence of uveitis (deep eye inflammation) after surgery is increased for patients receiving lens implants.  Dogs appear to have functional vision without prosthetic lenses. In one study, the complication rate was 15% after lens implantation.

WHAT IF IT GOES UNTREATED?

A cataract by itself does not necessarily require treatment.  If there is no associated inflammation and no associated glaucoma and the only problem is blindness, it is perfectly reasonable to have a blind pet. Blind animals have good life quality and do well though it is important not to move furniture around or leave any hazardous clutter in the home.

For further information, the following web sites may be helpful:

    www.eyevet.ca
    This site has a helpful area on dealing with a blind dog.

    www.eyevet.ca/cataract.html
    There is also a good area on cataracts with more details on the procedures.

    www.veterinaryvision.com/dvm_forum/dvm-cataracts.htm
    A good description of the surgical procedures for cataracts.

    www.acvo.com
    The Official web site of the American College of Veterinary Ophthalmologists.  Find an ophthalmologist near you.
     

 

 

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