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The older dog
especially needs extra support. Puppies and active young adults draw the attention
of people. Older and "special needs" animals are considered work and are
often overlooked as a companion who would adore you. SO - on that trip to the
shelter to pick up a companion consider an adult or older dog (so you may loose
those first months of accidents and teething on furniture/shoes) for some busy
person that might be just the ticket! And the difference (literally) between life
or death to some of these animals. Older animals are worthy of love and are just
as capable of returning it and bonding to you as a young animal. So you may lose a
few years because they are older. Do not sell them short because of age. They have
the potential to enrich your lives and give you so much...if you just give them
the chance to do so. Let your heart go out to these animals. Imagine their loss
and fear at being displaced from someone who loved them. |
Caring
for an Older Dog
As dogs begin to
age, it is important for the owner to be aware of their pet's health and
changing needs. Dogs age at different rates depending on breed, size, and
environment and over all health. Signs of aging include deeper sleep,
graying fur - particularly around the face, and reduced energy level.
Noticing your dog's aging process is important as many problems can be
avoided with good care.
Basic care for an older dog includes regular grooming, monitoring of weight
and diet, examination of teeth and eyes, and protection from fleas and
ticks. Grooming becomes increasingly important because it helps stimulate
the production of natural oils to the dog's skin, which often slows down
with age.
An older dog's activity level often decreases as well. A reduction in food,
or switching to a senior dog food is often helpful in keeping the pet at a
healthy weight. An overweight dog is susceptible to a greater number of
health problems than an average weight dog. Also, the dog will be much more
comfortable at a healthy weight. At this weight, a dog will move better and
experience fewer aches and pains.
Check your dog's teeth and gums periodically for abnormalities. Tooth loss
and gum disease are not uncommon and may affect eating patterns. Catching a
dental problem early will usually result in a fairly simple treatment and a
bigger problem will be avoided. Also check your dog's eyes. Some dog's eyes
will start to get cloudy and vision may decrease. Keeping fleas and ticks
and other parasites off your dog becomes increasingly important with
advancing years. Parasites can carry diseases that are easier for a young
dog to fight off than an older dog.
Daily care also changes as your dog ages. Try to give your dog a place to
sleep that is away from draft and is not too hot or cold. A bed or mat will
help keep your dog comfortable. If your dog begins to exhibit mobility
problems, consider blocking off difficult areas such as stairs to keep him
from getting hurt. Keeping a daily routine will also help comfort your dog.
Don't punish your dog if he isn't capable of sticking to his housebreaking
or if he is agitated when woken up suddenly. This is most likely an element
of age and not a behavioral problem. Regular checkups with the vet become
more important, since older dogs are more susceptible to ailments and early
treatment can keep minor problems from becoming major ones.
Specific ailments to look for in older dogs are bladder and kidney problems.
An older dog may need to be taken outdoors more often, but if there is a
significant change or control issues when urinating have it examined by a
vet. If your dog is experiencing aches and pains; particularly after
sleeping, have him checked for arthritis and hip dysplasia. If you notice
your dog having trouble breathing seek help immediately. This is a sign of a
heart or lung problem. Checking for growths under the skin is important too.
Many dogs will have growths, usually they are fat deposits, but there is a
potential for cysts or tumors to develop. Catching these early is imperative
to your dog's health. With a little extra care and attention your dog can
have a long, healthy and happy life. |
|
Caring
for Your Older Pets during Winter
The brisk, refreshing days of autumn rapidly fade to the
colder, more troublesome days of winter. Winter is a
time of added stress for all animals, but it is especially
hard for our older pets. Geriatric animals have less
strength, less muscle reserves, and often underlying
problems that may surface in the winter. Every system
of your elderly pet may suffer. Cold weather, snow,
and ice make it difficult for older joints to move, so
arthritis gets worse. Cold air aggravates respiratory
and cardiac conditions, making breathing more difficult.
Older animals left outside without adequate shelter suffer
from hypothermia and frostbite. Those left without fresh
food and unfrozen water will become dehydrated and
malnourished. Even geriatric pets that live indoors can
suffer during winter. The short days and lack of
sunshine cause many an owner and a pet to feel blue, so
exercise routines are eliminated, muscle tone is lost, and
excess weight appears. This weight can wreak havoc on
the bones, joints, and organs of an older pet.
But winter does not have to sap the strength of your beloved
pets. There are many steps that you can take to make
sure that your older pets not only survive, but thrive this
winter. Of course, these tips apply to younger animals
as well, but they are absolutely critical to the good health
of senior animals. By following a few simple steps,
your elderly pets will not only enjoy the brisk weather, but
feel great all season. You will have the satisfaction
of knowing that you are providing the best care possible for
your older friends.
1. Provide fresh water at all times:
All pets must have access to clean water at all times.
Many older pets are suffering from undiagnosed, underlying
kidney and liver problems. If water is restricted,
these problems can surface as major illnesses. A pet
with kidney disease left without water for one day will
dehydrate and become very ill. Remember that snow and
ice do not replace water. Fresh, unfrozen water needs
to be available on a continual basis, so a heater may be
needed to keep water from freezing. Large, plastic
bowls are a better choice to hold water than metal bowls, as
the pet's tongue may stick to a cold, metal bowl. The
water will do no good if the pet cannot get to it, so it is
critical to make sure that your older pets have clean,
unfrozen water that they are able to reach no matter how
snowy or icy the day. Make sure to shovel pathways to
water bowls, use de-icer on walkways as needed, and keep
fresh water inside and out.
2. Provide shelter from rain, snow, and wind:
All pets, no matter the length and thickness of their coats,
need protection from winter precipitation and wind. A
proper structure keeps the pet warm, dry, out of drafts, and
up off the damp ground. The best structure is your own
house. If a dog cannot be kept in the house, a
doghouse or similar structure must be constructed. The
house should be large enough to allow the dog to turn around
and lie down in, but small enough for the dog's body to
heat. It should be insulated to reduce heat loss to
the outside. Traditional wooden doghouses with an open
front and peaked roof are not suitable for most winter
environments. The wood is a poor insulator, prone to rot,
and attractive to insects. The open door allows cold
air to fill the house. A better design is a plastic resin
house with an offset door and a covering flap. Houses
should be elevated off the ground, faced away from the
prevailing wind, and have a blanket or similar object for
bedding. Placing the house under an existing roof or
structure helps protect the dog from foul weather.
Older cats should be kept indoors. Feral cats can be
helped by placing shelters in the areas that the cats
congregate. The shelters should be elevated, have a
flap to block wind, and be bedded with some type of warm
bedding.
Every attempt should be made to keep geriatric animals in
the house, not outside with a shelter. Animals that
could withstand the cold when they were young are less
likely to do well in the face of cold weather as they age.
They do not have the body mass, body fat, or stamina to stay
out in frigid temperatures. Older pets belong with
you, in the house, during inclement weather.
3. Protect your older pet from hypothermia:
Hypothermia is the medical term for a body temperature below
normal. Even though most pets have fur, they can still
lose enough body heat to suffer from hypothermia. Animals
with little body fat, those in weak condition, those with
poor muscle tone, and those with poor hair coats are prime
candidates for hypothermia. So are pets that cannot
regulate their body temperature easily. Most elderly
cats and dogs belong in one or more of these categories.
Older animals are more likely to have poor body tone, to
have sparse hair coats, and to be unable to regulate their
body temperature. As the body temperature starts to
fall, the animals' internal organs cease to function
properly. A hypothermic animal may shiver, be cold to
the touch, act lethargic, suffer from a drop in heart rate
and respiratory rate, and become unresponsive.
Hypothermia can be rapidly fatal.
Treatment consists of warming the pet with hot water
bottles, hair dryers, or heating pads. Treatment must
be immediate, but done slowly enough to avoid burns.
Since circulation is compromised, heat that would normally
not cause a problem can actually burn the pet.
Therefore, heating pads should be covered with a towel and
hair dryers set on low. The pet should be turned often
to prevent overheating one side of the body, and to
stimulate circulation. Once the process is started,
and the animal begins to warm up, it should be wrapped in a
blanket and immediately transferred to the veterinarian for
further treatment.
Keeping your older pet warm and dry can prevent hypothermia.
Wind and water rob your dog of heat, so shelter is a
necessity. Any older pets that get wet or cold playing
or walking outside should be brought indoors and dried.
Keep walks and play periods short to prevent chilling.
Dogs with short hair coats can be protected with sweaters or
coats designed for dogs. Coats are not a substitute
for shelter, as they only warm the dog's body, and they must
be cleaned frequently to maintain their insulating
properties, but they will keep short-haired dogs comfortable
when the thermometer drops.
4. Protect your older pet from frostbite:
Frostbite occurs when the body tissues become so cold that
circulation is impaired and damage results. Areas
prone to frostbite include ears, feet, and the tip of the
tail. These parts of the body often lack hair and receive
decreased blood flow when the body is chilled. Feet
are especially sensitive to frostbite because snow and ice
pack between the toes, providing a direct source of cold.
Older pets with heart disease already have poor circulation
to the extremities. If the body gets chilled,
circulation to these areas is decreased even more and
frostbite can rapidly occur.
Frostbitten areas will initially turn white and may lose
hair. If warmed, the tissue will redden and swell.
Frostbite is very painful. A pet with frostbite should
have the affected areas slowly and gently warmed.
Avoid vigorous rubbing and extremely high temperature, as
this will cause more damage to already devitalized tissues.
Once treatment is begun, the pet should be brought to the
veterinarian for further care. Response to treatment
varies depending on the extent of tissue damage. If
damage is not severe, recovery is possible, although the
hair may not grow back, or it may grow in white. Some
frostbitten areas do not recover and require amputation.
Frostbite can be prevented by monitoring your older pet.
Make sure that the animal does not stay outside long enough
to chill sensitive body parts. Remove snow and ice
that packs between toes and on the legs. Consider
boots for dogs that love long walks, but end up with chilled
feet. Even though boots will provide some protection, they
will not replace common sense and good foot care for your
pets.
5. Protect your older pet from malnutrition:
Like most people, most pets do not require more calories
just because it is cold outside. But pets that spend a
great deal of time outside or dogs that work and run during
the winter may need additional calories to meet their
bodies' demands. This is especially true of older pets
that do not digest and utilize their food as well as they
did when they were younger. Calories can be increased
by increasing the total amount of food given to the animal
or by increasing the amount of fat in the diet. Some
dogs literally are not able to eat a large enough amount of
dry food to meet their caloric needs during the winter.
These dogs will need added meat and fats to increase the
number of calories per bite. The goal is to maintain
optimum weight all year, no matter what the actual outside
temperature.
Do not simply fill a bowl with dry food and forget about it.
If an older dog must be kept outside, it should be regularly
checked to make sure that it is not losing weight.
Your older animal must have ample food and be physically
able to consume it. The dog will need healthy teeth
and gums and a food that it will readily consume. This
may be the perfect time to have the pet's mouth examined and
teeth cleaned, and to switch to a higher calorie, canned
food.
The opposite problem may occur with those elderly pets kept
indoors all winter. Many older pets do not want to go
out in the cold. They prefer to sit on the couch, by
the fire, all winter. These pets may actually gain
weight as they await springtime. The excess weight
places stress on older joints and organs, and can increase
signs of heart disease, respiratory disease, liver disease,
and arthritis. It is important to make sure that your
geriatric couch cat or dog does not gain excessive weight in
the colder months. Short walks can do wonders for the pet's
health and attitude.
6. Protect your older pet from toxins and poisons:
The commercial products used to make life easier in the cold
months can be dangerous for dogs. Road salts and the
chemicals designed to melt ice are toxic for dogs.
They irritate the dogs' footpads, can burn skin, and cause
mouth irritations if swallowed. Sand mixed in with the
chemicals can abrade pads and skin, leading to more
irritation and secondary infections. These effects may
be even more severe in older animals that are suffering from
underlying liver and kidney problems, or have suppressed
immune systems.
Exposure to these irritants can be limited by putting boots
on dogs and making sure that ice, snow, and road salt are
routinely removed from the feet, chest, and belly.
Rinsing these areas and drying them will remove the
chemicals, melt hardened ice and snow, and remove bacteria.
Keeping the feet warm and dry will help prevent blisters and
infections. Cats really should be kept indoors, but
those that go outside should have their feet cleaned and
checked daily.
Care should also be taken to keep car products, such as
antifreeze, away from dogs and cats. Antifreeze made
with ethylene glycol tastes good and is extremely toxic to
pets. Dogs have been known to chew through the plastic
bottle to get to the antifreeze inside of it.
Antifreeze containers should be wiped clean before storing.
They should be stored in areas that are inaccessible to any
pet. This can be a problem for owners that bring cats
and dogs into the garage in inclement weather. These
pets must not have any access to any amounts of antifreeze.
Very small amounts of the product can cause rapid kidney
failure and death. If a pet has come in contact with
antifreeze, the animal should be brought to the veterinarian
for immediate treatment. Do not wait to see if the
animal becomes sick; seek emergency medical care as rapidly
as possible
7. Protect your older pet from getting lost:
Older pets often lose some of their hearing, eyesight, and
sense of smell. Pets that could find their way home
with ease when they were younger are now likely to become
disoriented and easily lost. This problem gets worse
if familiar sights are covered by ice and snow, or if plowed
snow covers trails the pets usually use to get home.
Make sure that your older pets are not put into a situation
where they can become lost. One night out in the cold
may be too much for your aged pet. Elderly pets should
not be allowed to run loose. They should wear collars
with name tags and be micro-chipped. It your pet does
leave the house or yard, do not wait to see if it comes
home. Go look for your older pet before the day
becomes dark and the animal cannot be found.
8. Protect your older dog's legs, feet and pads:
Your dog's paws and pads are often wet, muddy, or covered
with snow and ice in the winter. If not properly
treated, lameness and infection can occur. Tiny
abrasions, cuts, and cracks caused by the ice and frozen mud
can lead to lameness. Bacteria and yeast can overgrow
in the wet, dirty cracks and lead to infections of the nail
beds and pads. These infections can be painful and
difficult to treat and may eventually result in the loss of
a nail. In addition, snow, ice, or mud that is frozen
in between the toes can force the toes apart and cause the
dog to walk incorrectly. Ice that is frozen into
clumps along the hair on the legs can pull the hair away
from the skin and cause irritation. As previously
discussed, packed snow can impair circulation and lead to
frostbite, while road salt, sand, and de-icing chemicals can
cause blisters, irritations, and burns on the feet and pads.
Even though these problems can plague any dog, an older pet
that is already arthritic and sore is more likely to become
injured and lame than a younger, healthier pet. In
addition, healing is often prolonged in older pets, so it
becomes even more important to protect your elderly pets
from winter time foot injuries.
Ice and mud should be removed from the dog's feet and pads.
Clipping the long leg and foot hair to a moderate length may
facilitate this winter grooming. After the ice and
snow are removed, the feet can be rinsed and dried to remove
chemicals and dirt. In addition, the use of dog boots
can help prevent the build-up of ice and snow that leads to
foot irritations.
It is especially important to help elderly, arthritic pets
deal with the cold weather. Chilled muscles and joints
do not move and glide smoothly, so older pets may be stiff
and sore in the winter months. Help these pets by
providing daily, short walks to limber tired muscles.
Keep older pets off of cold, hard floors by using padded,
orthopedic beds with plush coverings. Older pets are
less agile and more likely to fall, so monitor your dog as
it navigates steps to prevent spills and use a portable ramp
to aid in climbing steps or into the cars. Preventing
falls eliminates the need for painful recoveries.
9. Protect your older pet from burns:
Older pets that are less aware of their surroundings are
prone to accidental burns. More burns occur during
winter than any other time of year because older animals
seek external heat to warm old bones and because owners tend
to use extra heat in the cold weather. There are many
sources of heat that can potentially cause burn injuries.
These include wood burning and gas fireplaces, portable
electric and propane space heaters, and even electric
blankets. Dogs and cats can be burned by sleeping too
close to heat sources, or by flying embers and sparks.
They can knock over space heaters and chew through electric
cords. Sleeping on heating pads or electric blankets
can create hotspots on the pets' bodies that lead to burns.
Even hot winter beverages that are accidentally spilled can
cause painful burns.
Burns from fireplaces can be prevented by the use of
properly placed screens. Other burns can be prevented
by monitoring pets at all times when space heaters or
heating pads are being used. No animals should ever be
left alone in a room with any type of space heater.
Pets should not be allowed to sleep unattended on electric
blankets, so resist your older cat's pleas to sleep on the
heated blanket. The animals should not be allowed to
sleep directly on the surface of a heating pad, and must be
monitored continually if one is used under their bedding.
Instead of electrically heated pads or blankets, use covered
orthopedic beds or thermal beds to cushion older pets and
keep them comfortable.
Accidental burns should be treated immediately by placing
ice on the burned area and seeking veterinary care.
The damage caused by a burn can be much greater than it
appears, so a veterinarian should examine any burns on your
pets.
10. Protect your older dog from accidents:
Dogs do not instinctively know how to handle themselves in
the winter. They are not wolves and do not have a
natural ability to handle inclement weather. Dogs
cannot find their way through blinding blizzards, and can
become lost and disoriented. Like people, dogs can
fall on the ice or slippery surfaces and injure themselves.
They also cannot tell if an ice-covered lake, pond, or river
is safe to walk across. Dogs can easily fall through
thin ice and drown. Make sure that your dog only has
access to frozen water surfaces that are known to be safe.
If a wintertime activity is not safe for humans, it should
not be considered safe for a dog.
Take extra steps to protect your older pet from winter time
accidents. Elderly pets are more delicate than younger
ones, so the slippery ice that is an inconvenience for a
younger dog may cripple an older pet that falls. Make
sure to shovel ice-covered steps or place a ramp over them
to avoid dangerous spills. And remember that the dunk in the
frigid lake that your younger dog enjoys all winter can lead
to hypothermia in your older friend. Either avoid the
swim or dry your dog immediately afterwards. Attention
to details can help you avoid unnecessary winter accidents
that can harm your older pets.
11. Protect your dog from seasonal holidays.
Winter holidays are very exciting, but are a potential
source of danger for your senior dogs and cats.
Protect your older pets from holiday indulgences. Do
not allow them to eat excessive amounts of holiday treats or
leftovers. Digestive upsets that may lead to mild
diarrhea or vomiting in a younger pet can result in serious
illness in an older pet that already suffers from chronic
gastrointestinal, liver, or kidney troubles, or diseases
such as diabetes. The result can be digestive upsets, severe
vomiting and diarrhea, and even a potentially fatal
inflammation of the pancreas called pancreatitis.
Avoid letting your pet eat the bones from holiday turkeys or
other meats. The bones can splinter or catch in the
digestive tract. Also, do not feed holiday treats rich
in chocolate to the pet, as this sweet is toxic to animals.
Holiday accidents can be very dangerous for older pets.
Elderly animals may have underlying troubles that interfere
with healing or prevent surgery if needed. So, guard
your pets and avoid common problems. For example, your
pets need to be protected from the Christmas tree. Do
not allow them to chew on Christmas tree needles that fall
from the tree. The needles are very sharp and will
irritate the mouth, gums, and tongue, and can penetrate the
intestines if swallowed. Swallowed needles can require
a surgical repair, which could be life-threatening for older
pets.
The pets should also be prevented from drinking the water
from the tree stand. This water can be contaminated
with insecticides and fertilizers from the tree trunk.
Avoid letting them play with wrapping strings, ribbons, and
tinsel, as these items can lodge in the intestines and
create severe damage and blockages. Hang ornaments
above the level of the dog's mouth to prevent the dog from
knocking them over and chewing on them. Homemade
ginger bread and dough ornaments are especially attractive
to dogs, so hang these ornaments high in the tree or place a
decorative fence around the tree to keep the dog away.
Finally, make sure electric light cords are placed out of
reach of a curious animal's mouth.
Decorative plants such as poinsettia, holly, Jerusalem
cherry, amaryllis, and mistletoe are poisonous to animals.
These plants should be kept in areas that pets cannot reach
or replaced with artificial plants. Holiday candles
should also be kept in inaccessible areas and monitored when
lit.
Finally, do not push your older pet to interact with
visitors if the animal is uncomfortable. Pets that are
not used to a lot of guests or have never socialized with
children may be uncomfortable in crowded situations.
Even animals that used to love attention may resist being
touched if their bones and joints ache, or if they are just
tired and wish to be left alone. These animals should
be allowed to leave and relax, undisturbed, in a quiet area
of the house. This can make the holiday more enjoyable for
everyone involved.
12. Pay attention to your older pet's needs:
The most important health tip for your older pets is to make
sure that you pay attention to their needs. Do not be
so distracted by the snow, ice, and holidays that you forget
that your aged pet needs a little extra attention in cold
weather. Whether it is another orthopedic pad placed
on the cold floor, or a ramp over the frozen steps, small
acts of kindness can help your older friend feel fine this
winter. And do not ignore small changes in behavior that may
signal a medical problem. If your older pet refuses to
go outside, won't eat, or falls in the snow, a visit to the
veterinarian may be needed. By paying attention to
details and keeping a close eye on your older pet, the
winter should pass easily into a healthy spring.
Sincerely,
Dr. Jane Leon
|
|
Monitoring
Your Aging Dog for Signs of Disease
Holly Frisby, DVM
Veterinary Services Department, Drs.
Foster & Smith, Inc. |
As your dog ages, the
likelihood he will develop various changes in the function of his body
systems increases. Some of these will be normal changes due to the aging
process, others may be indicative of disease. To be more easily alerted
to possible signs of disease early in the disease process:
- Monitor food
consumption: how much is being eaten?, what type of food is being
eaten (e.g.; does your dog leave the hard kibble and only eat the
canned?)?, any difficulty eating or swallowing?, any vomiting?
- Monitor water
consumption: drinking more or less than usual?
- Monitor urination and
defecation: color, amount, consistency and frequency of stool;
color and amount of urine; any signs of pain while urinating or
defecating?, any urinating or defecating in the house?
- Measure weight every 2
months: for small dogs use an infant or mail scale, or use the
scale in your veterinarian's office; for medium-size dogs, weigh
yourself holding the dog, then weigh yourself and subtract to find
the difference; for larger dogs, you may need to use your
veterinarian's scale.
- Groom, check and clip
nails, look for any lumps, bumps, or non-healing sores; any
abnormal odors?, any change in size of abdomen?, increased hair
loss?
- Monitor behavior:
sleep patterns, obeying commands, tendency to be around people; any
house soiling?, easily startled?, anxious when left alone?
- Monitor activity and
mobility: difficulty with stairs?, inability to exercise without
tiring quickly?, bumping into things?, sudden collapses?,
seizures?, any loss of balance?, any lameness or change in gait?
- Look for any changes
in respiration: coughing?, panting?, sneezing?
- Provide home dental
care: brush
your dog's teeth, regularly examine the inside of his mouth;
any excesive drooling?, bad breath?, are the gums yellow, light
pink, or purplish?
- Monitor environmental
temperature and the temperature at which your dog seems most
comfortable.
- Schedule regular
appointments with your veterinarian.
Some of the more common
signs indicative of diseases are shown in the table below. Remember, just
because your dog has a sign of a disease does not necessarily mean he has
the disease. What it does mean, is that your dog should be examined by
your veterinarian so a proper diagnosis can be made.
| Signs
and Symptoms of Common Diseases in Older Dogs |
Associated
Diseases |
| Behavior
Changes |
Pain
associated with arthritis
Loss of sight or hearing
Cognitive dysfunction
Hypothyroidism
Liver disease
Kidney disease |
| Weakness
or excercise intolerance |
Mitral
insufficiency/Heart disease
Anemia
Obesity
Diabetes mellitus
Cancer
Hypothyroidism |
| Changes
in activity level |
Hypothyroidism
Arthritis
Pain
Obesity
Anemia
Mitral Insufficiency/
Heart disease
Kidney disease
Cancer |
| Weight
gain |
Hypothyroidism
Cushing's
disease
Obesity
Arthritis |
| Weight
loss |
Cancer
Kidney disease
Liver disease
Gastrointestinal disease
Decreased food consumption
Oral
or dental disease
Mitral
Insufficiency/Heart disease
Diabetes mellitus
Inflammatory
bowel disease |
| Abnormally
colored mucous membranes (gums) |
Anemia
Mitral
Insufficiency/Heart disease
Liver disease |
| Coughing |
Mitral
Insufficiency/Heart disease
Respiratory
disease
Heartworm
disease
Cancer |
| Increased
thirst and urination |
Cushing's
disease
Pyometra
(uterine infection)
Diabetes mellitus
Liver disease
Kidney disease |
| Vomiting |
Kidney
disease
Liver disease
Gastrointestinal disease
Inflammatory
bowel disease
Cancer
Diabetes mellitus |
| Diarrhea |
Gastrointestinal
disease
Sudden changes in diet
Inflammatory
bowel disease
Kidney disease
Liver disease |
| Seizures |
Epilepsy
Cancer
Kidney disease
Liver disease
Mitral
Insufficiency/Heart disease |
| Haircoat
changes |
Hypothyroidism
Cushing's
disease
Obesity |
| Bad
breath |
Dental
disease
Oral cancer
Kidney disease |
| Lameness,
difficulty rising |
Arthritis
Nervous system disease
Obesity |
| Urinary
incontinence |
Kidney
disease
Pain from arthritis
Hormone responsive incontinence
Bladder
stones
Cancer
Prostate disease |
| Lumps
or bumps |
Cancer
Benign tumors |
| Appetite
changes |
Diabetes
mellitus
Cancer
Liver disease
Kidney disease
Gastrointestinal disease
Stress
Pain
Reaction to medication(s)
Oral
or dental disease
Cushing's disease |
| Cloudy
eye |
Nuclear
sclerosis
Cataract
Glaucoma |
References
Becker,
M. Caring for older pets and their families. Firstline; August/September
1998: 28-30.
Bruyette, D (moderator). The
brain on the wane: Roundtable on canine cognitive dysfunction. Veterinary
Forum; July 1998: 54-59.
Harper, EJ. Changing
perspectives on ageing and energy requirements: Ageing and energy intakes in
humans, dogs, and cats. Waltham International Symposium on Pet Nutrition and
Health in the 21st Century. Orlando, FL; May 25-29, 1997.
Horwitz, DF. Diagnosing and
treating behavior problems in senior dogs. Supplement to Veterinary
Economics; 1998: 54-63.
Hoskins, JD; McCurnin, DM.
Geriatric care in the late 1990s. In Hoskins, JD (ed) The Veterinary Clinics
of North America Small Animal Practice: Geriatrics. W.B. Saunders Co.
Philadelphia, PA; 1997: 1273-1284.
Hoskins, JD; McCurnin, DM.
Implementing a successful geriatric medicine program. Supplement to
Veterinary Medicine; 1997.
Landsberg, G. The most common
behavior problems of older dogs. Supplement to Veterinary Medicine; 1995
(August): 16-24.
Landsberg, G; Ruehl, W.
Geriatric Behavior Problems. In Hoskins, JD (ed) The Veterinary Clinics of
North America Small Animal Practice: Geriatrics. W.B. Saunders Co.
Philadelphia, PA; 1997: 1537-1559.
Overall, KL. Clinical
Behavioral Medicine for Small Animals. Mosby-Year Book, Inc. St. Louis, MO;
1997.
Thompson, S (moderator).
Roundtable on pediatric, adult, senior, and geriatric wellness at every
stage of life. Veterinary Forum; 1999 (January): 60-67.
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Common
Diseases in Older Dogs
Holly Frisby, DVM
Veterinary Services Department, Drs.
Foster & Smith, Inc.
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In The
Aging Process and How We Can Help Older Dogs Adapt, we explain some
of the more common and normal changes we can see in the function of the
various organ systems in an older dog. Many of these changes are
expected. Disease can occur, however, if these changes become severe and
the organ or system is no longer able to compensate. The more common
diseases seen in older dogs and the signs of these diseases are listed in
the table below. Most of the diseases are discussed in detail in separate
articles, just one click away.
| Common
Diseases in Older Dogs |
Signs and Symptoms
of Disease |
| Cancer |
Abnormal
swellings that persist or continue to grow
Sores that do not heal
Weight loss
Loss of appetite
Bleeding or discharge from any body opening
Offensive odor
Difficulty eating or swallowing
Hesitation to exercise or loss of stamina
Difficulty breathing, urinating, or defecating |
| Dental
disease |
Bad breath
Difficulty eating or swallowing
Weight loss |
| Arthritis |
Difficulty rising
Difficulty climbing steps and/or jumping
Behavior changes - irritable, reclusive
House soiling
Loss of muscle |
| Kidney
disease/failure |
Increased
urination and thirst
Weight loss
Vomiting
Loss of appetite
Weakness
Pale gums
Diarrhea
Blood in vomit or black, tarry stool
Bad breath and oral ulcers
Behavior changes |
| Prostate
disease |
House soiling
Dribbling urine
Blood in urine |
| Cataracts |
Cloudy appearance
to eyes
Bumping into objects
Not retrieving objects |
| Hypothyroidism |
Weight gain
Dry, thin haircoat
Lethargy, depression |
| Cushing's
disease |
Thin haircoat and
thin skin
Increased thirst and urination
Pot-bellied appearance
Increased appetite |
| Urinary
incontinence |
Urine in bed or
area in which pet was sleeping |
| Dry
eye |
Large amounts of
yellow-green discharge from eyes |
| Epilepsy |
Seizures |
| Gastrointestinal
disease |
Vomiting
Diarrhea
Loss of appetite
Loss of weight
Blood in stool
Black and/or tarry stool |
| Inflammatory
bowel disease |
Diarrhea
Vomiting
Mucous or blood in stool
Increased frequency of defecation |
| Diabetes
mellitus |
Increased thirst
and urination
Weight loss
Weakness, depression
Vomiting |
| Obesity |
Overweight
Exercise intolerance
Difficulty walking or getting up
Unkempt haircoat, especially in anal area |
| Anemia |
Exercise
intolerance
Very light-colored gums |
| Mitral
Insufficiency/Heart disease |
Exercise
intolerance
Coughing, especially at night
Weight loss
Fainting
Panting |
| Liver
disease |
Vomiting
Loss of appetite
Behavior changes
Yellow or pale gums |
| Bladder
stones |
Difficulty
urinating
Blood in the urine
May show no signs of disease |
References
Becker, M. Caring
for older pets and their families. Firstline; August/September 1998: 28-30.
Bruyette, D (moderator). The brain on the
wane: Roundtable on canine cognitive dysfunction. Veterinary Forum; July
1998: 54-59.
Harper, EJ. Changing perspectives on
ageing and energy requirements: Ageing and energy intakes in humans, dogs,
and cats. Waltham International Symposium on Pet Nutrition and Health in the
21st Century. Orlando, FL; May 25-29, 1997.
Horwitz, DF. Diagnosing and treating
behavior problems in senior dogs. Supplement to Veterinary Economics; 1998:
54-63.
Hoskins, JD; McCurnin, DM. Geriatric care
in the late 1990s. In Hoskins, JD (ed) The Veterinary Clinics of North
America Small Animal Practice: Geriatrics. W.B. Saunders Co. Philadelphia,
PA; 1997: 1273-1284.
Hoskins, JD; McCurnin, DM. Implementing a
successful geriatric medicine program. Supplement to Veterinary Medicine;
1997.
Landsberg, G. The most common behavior
problems of older dogs. Supplement to Veterinary Medicine; 1995 (August):
16-24.
Landsberg, G; Ruehl, W. Geriatric Behavior
Problems. In Hoskins, JD (ed) The Veterinary Clinics of North America Small
Animal Practice: Geriatrics. W.B. Saunders Co. Philadelphia, PA; 1997:
1537-1559.
Overall, KL. Clinical Behavioral Medicine
for Small Animals. Mosby-Year Book, Inc. St. Louis, MO; 1997.
Thompson, S (moderator). Roundtable on
pediatric, adult, senior, and geriatric wellness at every stage of life.
Veterinary Forum; 1999 (January): 60-67. |
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WHAT IS A
CATARACT?
The normal lens of
the eye is a focussing device. It is completely clear
and is suspended in position by special tissue fibers
(called “zonules”) just inside the pupil.
The lens focusses an image on the retina in the back of
the eye in a process called “accommodation.”
The focussing power of the dog’s lens is at least
three times weaker than that of a human and a cat’s
lens is at best half the focussing power as a human’s.
(It is helpful to remember that dogs and cats have a
sense of smell at least 1000 times more accurate than
ours and this is their primary means of perceiving the
world.)
Despite its clarity,
the lens is in fact made of tissue fibers. As the animal
ages, the lens cannot change it’s size and grow
larger; instead, it becomes more compact with fibers. This
condition is called “nuclear sclerosis” and is
responsible for the cloudy-eyed appearance of older dogs
but these lenses are still clear and the dog can still
see through them; these are not cataracts. The
lens is enclosed in a capsule which, if disrupted,
allows the immune system to see the lens proteins for
the first time, recognize them as “foreign,” and
attack. The resulting inflammation is painful and
can be damaging to the eye.
A
cataract is an opacity in the lens.
Cataracts can be
congenital, age-related, of genetic origin (the most
common cause), caused by trauma, by dietary deficiency
(some kitten milk replacement formulas have been
implicated), by electric shock, or by toxin. The patient
with a cataract is not able to see through the opacity.
If the entire lens is involved, the eye will be blind.
A SPECIAL NOTE
ON DIABETES MELLITUS IN DOGS:
Many things
can cause the lens to develop a cataract. A
special cause is Diabetes
Mellitus. In this condition
the blood sugar soars as does the sugar level of the
eye fluids. The fluid of the eye’s anterior
chamber (see illustration above) is the fluid that
normally nurtures the lens but in the diabetic pet the
lens can only utilize so much sugar. Excess absorbed
sugar is transformed into sorbitol within the lens
which unfortunately draws water into the lens causing
an irreversible cataract in each eye. Cataracts are unavoidable
in diabetic dogs no matter how good the insulin
regulation is; diabetic cats have alternative sugar
metabolism in the eye and do not get cataracts.
WHAT ELSE COULD IT
BE?
Many owners are not
really able to tell which portion of the eye looks
cloudy. Cloudiness on the cornea, as caused by
other eye diseases, can be mistaken for a cataract by an
inexperienced owner. Also, in the dog, the lens
will become cloudy with age as more and more fibers are
laid down as described above. Nuclear sclerosis,
as described, can mimic the appearance of a
cataract yet the eye with this condition can see and is
not diseased. It is a good idea to have your
veterinarian examine your pet if you think he or she has
a cataract as you could be mistaken.
WHY IS HAVING A
CATARACT BAD?
The area of the lens
involved by the cataract amounts to a spot that the
cannot be seen through. If the cataract involves
too much of the lens, the animal may be blind in that
eye and, of course, there could be cataracts in both
eyes which means the pet could be rendered completely
blind.
A cataract can
“luxate” which means that it can slip from the
tissue strands that hold it in place. The cataractous
lens can thus end up floating around in the eye where it
can cause damage. If it settles so as to block the
natural fluid drainage of the eye, glaucoma (a build up
in eye pressure) can result, leading to pain and
permanent blindness. A cataract can also cause glaucoma
when it absorbs fluid and swells so as to partially
obstruct fluid drainage from the eye.
Cataracts can begin
to dissolve after they have been present long enough.
This sounds like it could be a good thing but in fact,
this is a highly inflammatory process. The deep
inflammation in the eye creates a condition called
“uveitis” which is in itself painful and can lead to
glaucoma.
A small cataract that
does not restrict vision is probably not significant.
A more complete cataract may warrant treatment. Cataracts
have different behavior depending their origin. If
a cataract is of a type that can be expected to progress
rapidly (such as the hereditary cataracts of young
cocker spaniels) it may be of benefit to pursue
treatment when the cataract is smaller and softer, as
surgery will be easier.
WHAT TREATMENT IS
AVAILABLE?
Cataract treatment
generally involves surgical removal or physical
dissolution of the cataract under anesthesia. This
is invasive and expensive and is not considered unless
it can restore vision. A complete examination of the
eye is performed by a veterinary ophthalmologist.
If a cataract is present, it is not possible to see the
retina through it; a test called an
“Electroretinogram” is done to determine if the eye
has a functional retina and could benefit from cataract
surgery. Ultrasound of the eye can be used to look
for retinal detachments. If the eye has a blinded
retina, there is no point to subjecting the patient to
surgery.
Obviously, the
patient must be in good general health to undergo
surgery; diabetics must be well regulated before
cataract surgery. Also, it should be obvious that in
order for a patient to be a good candidate for surgery,
the patient must have a temperament conducive to the
administration of eye drops at home. Pets with
cataracts in one eye that can see in the other eye
generally do not need surgery.
If the patient proves
to be an appropriate surgical candidate, the lens can be
softened and sucked away using a technique called “phacoemulsification.”
If the patient is relatively young, the lens is
relatively soft and phacoemulsification is the first
choice procedure.
Older patients have
much harder lenses and it is more common in these
patients to simply remove the lens surgically.
COMPLICATIONS: Some
degree of uveitis (deep inflammation) in s unavoidable.
This can cause a pupil constriction reaction which can
increase the risk to scarring within the eye. Eye
drops to keep the pupil dilated are usually effective in
preventing this but not always. Inflammation in the eye
will resolve over weeks to months after surgery.
Success rate is higher for cataract surgery if minimal
inflammation is present in the eye prior to surgery thus
pre-operative anti-inflammatory eye drops are frequently
prescribed.
Another
complication involves the development of opacities on
the remaining lens capsule. In humans, laser surgery is
used to remove the lens capsule but in the dog, the
capsule is too thick for this. Some
ophthalmologists prefer to remove the capsule as a
preventive measure. The portion of the capsule that is
involved in this reaction is present in young dogs but
not in adult dogs.
Bleeding after
surgery can be an enormous complication and can easily
be caused by excess barking or activity after surgery.
Small bleeds are of little consequence but a large bleed
could ruin vision.
OVERALL,
A 90% SUCCESS RATE IS DESCRIBED
AFTER CATARACT SURGERY.
An Elizabethan
collar will be very important after surgery as patient
rubbing or pawing at the eye could be a disaster.
Topical therapy (eye drops) will be needed for several
months after surgery.
BEFORE
EMBARKING ON THE ADVENTURE OF
CATARACT SURGERY, BE SURE TO OBTAIN
A CLEAR EXPLANATION FROM YOUR
OPHTHALMOLOGIST OF EXACTLY
WHAT THE HOME CARE WILL INVOLVE.
LENS IMPLANTATION
A prosthetic lens may
or may not be inserted after the cataractous lens has
been removed. Without the prosthesis, the dog’s
vision will be approximately 20/800, and objects will
appear to be reversed (as in a mirror). This
sounds debilitating but, again, it is important to
remember that pets do not depend on their eyes in the
way we do so it is hard to make a good analogy.
Pros: A
prosthetic lens allows for normal restoration of
vision.
Cons: The
incidence of uveitis (deep eye inflammation) after
surgery is increased for patients receiving lens
implants. Dogs appear to have functional vision
without prosthetic lenses. In one study, the
complication rate was 15% after lens implantation.
WHAT IF IT GOES
UNTREATED?
A cataract by itself
does not necessarily require treatment. If there
is no associated inflammation and no associated glaucoma
and the only problem is blindness, it is perfectly
reasonable to have a blind pet. Blind animals have
good life quality and do well though it is important not
to move furniture around or leave any hazardous clutter
in the home.
For further
information, the following web sites may be helpful:
www.eyevet.ca
This site has a helpful area on dealing with a blind
dog.
www.eyevet.ca/cataract.html
There is also a good area on cataracts with more
details on the procedures.
www.veterinaryvision.com/dvm_forum/dvm-cataracts.htm
A good description of the surgical procedures for
cataracts.
www.acvo.com
The Official web site of the American College of
Veterinary Ophthalmologists. Find an
ophthalmologist near you.
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